Travelling with Kids
Spain & Gibraltar: August 2018
Age of kids: 9 and 7
Every two years, my family go on a holiday together. And I mean full family now: my parents, grandmother, brother, husband, kids – and this time, my brother’s lovely girlfriend. We usually rent a villa in Spain for a week and we try and find somewhere within an hour’s drive of Gibraltar.
Bit of family history: my parents moved to Gibraltar when I was about 2 and a half, and my brother was 6 months old. My dad is an engineer and back in 1987, he went out there to set up an overseas branch for the company he worked for. The original plan was to only stay out in Gib for 6 months. But 6 months turned into a year; a year turned into nine; and my brother and I gained an incredible childhood living on and around the Rock.
So now, we try and go back en masse every 2 years to revisit our favourite places. It’s also been nice to show my daughters where I grew up. Whenever we drive to Pontardawe, my husband, Adam, points out every friend’s house, every shop he worked in as a teenager, every wall he’s ever sat on! And we go there at least once a month! Well – every 2 years, it’s my time to shine! Girls, look! Look! This…this is where Uncle Rhys and I used to rent videos on a Friday night…
It’s now a pizzeria.
We’ve done our biennial Spain / Gib holiday holiday 4 times now, starting when our eldest daughter was 6 months old. Although we have altered the itinerary slightly each time, and stayed in slightly different locations, the overall gist of the vacation has stayed the same: stay in a villa in Spain, each lots of delicious food, drink lots of Spanish wine, visit Gibraltar. And even though this is exactly what we did this time too – I think it was our most successful trip yet. So here are the things that have worked well for us in the past.
Places to Stay
Spain vs Gib:
We always try to stay in Spain for a few reasons. The main one is that we need somewhere big enough for us all to stay. This year there were 9 people in our party – and it’d be tricky to find somewhere large enough to house that number in Gib. There are, of course, hotels and apartments in Gib that would be able to accommodate you if you are travelling in slightly smaller numbers. We like to find somewhere bigger so that we can spend time together during the day & eat together in the evening. But that’s all down to personal preference! If we can, we try and find a villa with a small pool, so that the children can jump in & out to their hearts’ content. The adults can take it in turns to jump in & splash about with them, and spend the rest of the time reading on the sun loungers. Or enjoying a nice glass of vino…
Staying in Spain is often much cheaper than staying in Gibraltar – even if you’re going for a hotel, rather than a villa. Space is limited in Gib, even with the newly reclaimed land, so existing hotels can kind of charge what they want. Having said that, if you want a holiday where you can sunbathe, go to the beach, eat out & also have plenty to explore without driving anywhere – staying in Gib is definitely your best bet (more about sightseeing in Gibraltar further down the page). You can even fly there directly from Gatwick, rather than flying into Malaga & driving down.
We’ve stayed in a few places in Spain over the years. Estepona and Puerto de la Duquesa are both great places to stay near. Both have bustling ports filled with cafes, shops and restaurants. They both have weekly markets which are perfect for bargain hunting & for the kids to go souvenir shopping. Don’t be afraid to barter – especially if you’re buying a few things from the same stall.
This year we stayed in Puerto Banus. It was really convenient, as we were able to walk to two supermarkets – as well as the port itself. It was a bit hilly on the way out of the port and my grandmother, in particular, found it too steep to manage. We enjoyed walking to the small piaza with the children for a coffee and a croissant though. Both Puerto Banus and Marbella are hot spots for tourists, so are always incredibly busy. This can be both a pro and a con when travelling with children.
Pros:
You will never be far away from shops and restaurants.
The beaches are equipped for families. Plenty of sun loungers and sun shades available to rent from the bars on the beach.
Water sports available for adventurous families.
Costa Water Park in Puerto Banus – an inflatable obstacle course in the sea for kids and adults alike to throw themselves about on!
Cons:
There are a lot of lads’ groups and hen parties holidaying in Marbella & Banus, which means that there’s a lot of nightlife and partying. It shouldn’t necessarily put you off going with young kids – there are plenty of families there too. It’s just something to bear in mind. If you’re looking for a quiet, peaceful family vacation, you may be better off looking somewhere else on the Costa del Sol.
Places to Eat
Bianca’s – a great family-friendly place to eat in Gibraltar. Bianca’s is located in Marina Bay and if you get a table outside, you’ll have a great view of the yachts in the harbour – and possibly of some planes leaving the runway. They have a varied menu and reasonable prices. They also have a bar area, if you’re just looking for an evening drink.
Sacarello’s – a lovely place to stop for a bite to eat near Main Street, Gibraltar. There’s a beautiful smell of fresh coffee as soon as you walk in through the door. They serve pastries and cakes, as well as more filling options for lunch and supper.
Restaurante Las Flores – the nicest chiringuito I think I’ve ever been to. The location on the beach just outside Malaga was perfect. The children ran down to the sea shore, which we could see clearly from our table outside. The staff were incredibly welcoming and the food was delicious. The paella, in particular, was fantastic. There was a lot of choice on the menu and some great sangrias to sample. I can’t recommend Restaurants Las Flores enough – and if we’d gone there earlier in our holiday, we’d have gone back again before leaving.
Restaurante Las Flores’ Website
Roman Oasis – The Roman Oasis is like no restaurant you’ve been to before. It’s a Roman themed villa in Manilva – only about 25 minutes away from Malaga and well worth the shirt trip to get there. The restaurant is only open in the evenings and it is definitely a good idea to book in advance. The owner, Paul, is welcoming and eccentric – make sure you read the explanation behind the Roman Oasis’ opening inside the menu!
The staff are great, the surroundings unique, and the food is delicious. Barbeque is the speciality, with unlimited visits to the buffet for just €25 per person. There are vegetarian options at the buffet too. The Roman Oasis also provides a play area for children, which Paul (the owner) gleefully describes as “politically incorrect – but secure” – which describes it in a nutshell! There’s a tank to climb on, a zipline to swing from, and even a glow in the dark skeleton to scream at. There really isn’t anywhere quite like the Roman Oasis and it’s definitely worth a visit!
Things to Do in Gibraltar
Before you go…
Levant Cloud – between July and October, a levant cloud can form over the Rock. It’s caused by warm, moist air coming in from the Mediterranean and cooling over the top of Gibraltar, forming a misty cloud. It can happen fairly quickly too – so it’s always worth sticking a jumper in your bag (especially for the kids) just in case!
Parking – In general, if you’re travelling into Gibraltar from Spain, I would recommend parking in Spain and walking through the border control. If you’re not familiar with Gibraltar’s roads and layout, driving is going to be more of a problem than it’s worth. There are plenty of taxis in Gib to take you where you want to go. Focona car park in La Linea is a good, safe place to park. It’s a covered car park with barriers and the rates are very reasonable. It’s also a very short distance to the border.
Cable Car – The Cable Car is a must-do in Gibraltar. You can buy tickets online beforehand. This makes the tickets a little cheaper – and you can join the Fast Track queue when you reach the departure station. This can make a huge difference to your day, as the queues to buy tickets can be extremely long, and waiting on the pavement in the heat with children is not how you want to be spending your day!
Most of the year, the cable car will take you straight to the top of the Rock. There are incredible views from the Top Station, as well as a cafe and restaurant, and a souvenir shop. From November through until March, the cable cars also stop halfway up at the Nature Reserve. But April till October, the card only go directly to the top. This means you will have to walk about 15 mins down to find the Nature Reserve.
The roads going up and down the Rock are steep and narrow. Depending on how old (and energetic) your children are, you may want to consider taking a taxi tour instead of the cable car. You will find taxis offering this service on the Gibraltarian side of the Border, outside the Cable Car station, and at the edges of Casmates Square (outside the ICC Shopping Centre). The taxi drivers will offer to drive you to all the main tourist stops on the way up to the Top of the Rock. This can be a life saver if you have young children – or elderly relatives -with you, as the steep walks between Top Station, the Nature Reserve and the Suspension Bridge can be hard going. Especially when the mid-point cable car station is closed.
Nature Reserve – Please, please, PLEASE read the warnings about the apes and follow them!!! The Barbary Apes can only be found in the wild in Gibraltar, so it is really worth going to see them. However, they are wild animals and are becoming a really problem in Gibraltar because of tourists. There are signs up all over the cable car stations, the Nature Reserve and at Top Station, explaining how to treat the apes and what to watch out for. Don’t get too close to them. Don’t stroke them. Don’t feed them. This may seem obvious, but you will see tourists doing all of these things — and the apes do bite! Make sure that all of your bags are zipped up and that you haven’t got any food out. The apes will steal anything that looks like food. This year, we saw an ape nick an entire carrier bag from the bottom of a stroller. They are not shy!
There will be plenty of apes wandering around Top Station, but you can walk 15 minutes down the road to get to the Nature Reserve, to see the ape dens. As I said, it’s a steep walk back up to the cable car. So if you’re happy seeing the apes wandering around Top Station, don’t feel you’re really missing out on something by giving the Nature Reserve a miss.
Skywalk – This is a new attraction in Gibraltar, which was opened in March 2018 by none other than Mark Hamill himself! It is a glass panelled walkway that juts out from the side of the Rock and stands 340m above sea level. The ‘walk of faith’ element was a big hit with our two children, and it’s a 5 minute walk from Top Station.
St Michael’s Cave – This one is a little further down from Top Station – about 10 minutes walking down the road. It’s a set of spectacular limestone caves tunnelling into the Rock. There are concerts held there every so often, so the main hall has been fitted with seats and a stage cut into the rock. The Upper Caves are lit up with multi-coloured lights and music echoes through the stones. The stalactites and stalagmites are spectacular – but the floor is slippery, so make sure you are all wearing sensible shoes!
Last time we went to Gibraltar, we booked to go caving in the Lower Caves. I would really recommend doing this with older children (the guides allow children 10 years and over), as it is a fantastic way to see the parts of St Michael’s Cave that are not accessible to the other tourists. Equipped with hard hats, the guide will take you down, up and through the Lower Caves, revealing a hidden lake deep underground. I took the photo below on our tour. Photography is allowed; just make sure that you’re camera is carries securely, as you’ll need both hands to climb up and down parts of the caves. The light makes the depth of the water look shallow – but it is actually very deep, holding 45,000 gallons of water. You do have to book the Lower Caves tours in advance and you can do so from this website:
www.visitgibraltar.gi/see-and-do/natural-attractions/lower-st-michaels-cave-36
Dolphin Safari / Dolphin Adventure – This is a must do! There are two dolphin tour operators in Gibraltar and both depart from (and have their ticket offices in) Marina Bay. We’ve used both tours before:
Dolphin Safari (blue boat – departure point outside Bianca’s restaurant)
Dolphin Adventure (yellow boat – departure point across the little bridge, next to the Sunborn boat-hotel)
There isn’t really much difference between the two tours. Both take you out to similar areas and they both have very similar success rates for finding the schools of dolphins. Prices are pretty similar and you get get a discount by booking in advance online. The Dolphin Safari blue boat is smaller, meaning the group sizes are smaller too. So if I was to choose, I’d probably go for that one, as it means that the children don’t have to fight for a view. But really, it’s a coin toss between the two!
If you can, it is worth booking in advance. Not only do you get 20% discount off the ticket prices, but you are then guaranteed a place on the boats. The tours fill up regularly and are quite often sold out in the summer months. So if dolphin spotting is high on your itinerary, definitely book ahead!
Main Street – Wandering down Main Street is perfect for souvenir shopping. There are plenty of shops selling Gibraltar-themed trinkets, as well as shops you’d find in the UK too (i.e. Marks & Spencer, Next etc). For parents, it can be a good opportunity to bargain-hunt for duty-free priced alcohol. The price for bottles varies along Main Street, if you have the time to price-hunt.
If you walk from one end to the other, you’ll pass the Governor’s Residence. There is a Changing of the Guards ceremony held outside the building several times daily on weekdays, which is fun to watch.
Beaches – There are several beaches around Gibraltar and they are all very different. These are the more popular choices:
Catalan Bay – a sandy beach on the eastern side of Gibraltar, close to the Caleta Hotel. A lovely beach with clean, clear ocean and rocks to climb. Plenty of places to find ice cream, food, and buckets & spades.
Camp Bay – a small rocky beach with a small strip of sand on the south-eastern part of Gib. There is a lido here as well, with two sea-water pools, and a bar-restaurant. As it is south facing, this is perfect beach for any sunbathers!
Eastern Beach – the biggest beach in Gibraltar. Again, crystal clear water and lots of sand. Eastern Beach is adjacent to the runway, so you can often watch aeroplanes take off and land from the comfort of your towel! There’s a restaurant-bar here as well, and also a good spot for sunbathing.
Sandy Bay – Sandy Bay was restored a few years ago after storms washed away most of the sand. It is usually one of the quieter beaches – possibly because there aren’t any bars, restaurants, or shops by the beach. So make sure you bring towels, sun umbrealls, food etc with you.
Walk across the runway – Gibraltar has a very unique runway and airport. The main road from the border into Gib crosses the runway. So whether you are walking or driving into the Gibraltar, you will need to cross the airstrip. Most of the time, the barriers are up – meaning it’s safe to cross. But if a plane is landing or taking off, the barriers come down, the runway is cleared, and in comes the aircraft. As an adult, it is quite a sight to see a plane landing so close to you – and the children absolutely love it! It feels a fun-amount of dangerous to then walk across the runway after having seen a plane take off!
Non-Sense 